Islands of Saints

After a relatively benign trip from St Martin, we have finally arrived in Guadeloupe….well Iles des Saintes to be exact.  When we first planned the route, we had planned on making our first stop in Deshaies, which is the first anchorage on the northwest coast of Guadeloupe. Since we hadn't anticipated that Moitessier would make such good timing during this passage, we ended up deciding last minute that we would skip Deshaies and move on to the anchorage in Basse-Terre, off of Marina de Riviere Sens (the next port for clearing in).  Originally we had planned on making landfall in Deshaies the following morning, but with the winds in our favor, MoMo was cruising at a nice average speed of  about 7 kts, making our would-be arrival in the middle of the night, which we all know is not something we ever want to do. And so we trudged on, moving further down the coast to make some headway, as we are currently already a little behind schedule (when are we not?).  Upon arrival the following morning at Basse-Terre, we noticed that the "anchorage" was essentially a tiny sliver of shallower water off of the side of the island very very close to shore, with the depths dropping from 65' to 165' in a matter of 2-3 hundred feet.  And so, once again, we decided to sail a couple more miles south to Iles des Saintes, meaning Islands of Saints in french and, boy, does it live up to its name.  

Sailing into this set of Guadeloupe owned islands was such a lovely surprise after the stressful debacle of a morning we had with deciding last minute where to go. We hadn't done any research and  didn't know what the deal was with all the mooring balls dotting the shore where the charts had labelled "anchorage," and so we tucked into Marigot Bay as this happens to be the only place  around with reasonable water depths that you can anchor in. After dinghying it in to the town of Terre de Haut and checking in, we discovered that it would cost us 11 Euros a night stay on the mooring balls, or 60 euros for a week, which we justified as reasonable considering the mere 2 euro check-in fee into Guadeloupe.  We also decided to take a mooring as our anchorage, though sheltered in settled weather, was starting to become unsafe with building winds clocking around and bringing in huge swells.  We ended up staying and relaxing in this lovely town for over a week, awaiting a tropical wave to pass before moving on.  We didn't do much but deal with some repairs on the boat (i.e. rewiring the SSB antenna, re-mounting our exhaust hose that had snapped loose, repairing an issue that had popped up in our steering, and so on…).  We revelled in the homeyness and the "Europeness" that this little town exude, and I swear it felt like I was walking around some small town in Europe somewhere, with its delightful colorful houses, once again set upon a lush island backdrop.  Though there isn't too much to do but just enjoy the beauty of this little set of islands, Frank and I thoroughly enjoyed taking it easy and just getting into the groove of the small island community here.  There is a sleepy Sunday feel to being here, and as brief of a stay we had here, we quickly fell into a routine of walking into town, getting some gelato, some baguette and cheese,  buying groceries, and simply marveling the quaintness of this place.  My words are not doing it justice, so I'll just stop right here and hope that my photos can portray just a little of what I'm going on about…

Underway….

That's St Eustatius behind me

Approaching Guadeloupe

Entering the Islands of Saints

Marigot Bay, where we anchored while it was sheltered

On a mooring ball...

Town of Terre de Haut

Church in the center of town

I've never seen this flower before

Goats everywhere…not sure if you can see in the photo

Hiking to the top

Fort Napoleon at the top...

And Bob's Your Uncle

We have been waiting for the past 2 weeks to finally splash the boat.  It's looking like we have another week to go before a slip is going to open up.  Hurry up and wait!  We have decided to stay at the docks at this marina for a little while longer once we get back in simply because of the price for living aboard here.  We still have a list of projects to do once we are in, but it's looking like we are finished with our "on-the-hard projects".  Hallelujah!   Here's a quick run down of things that have kept us busy for the past few years.  I think I may have missed some, but you get the point:

Installed new 3 burner Dickenson stove

Installed new propane line from locker to stove

Installed new propane solenoid and Fireboy propane detector in galley

Built new teak propane locker

Installed new propane regulator and 10lb aluminum tank

Installed red light in refrigerator

Repaired and rewired refrigerator

Installed dividers in silverware draws

Replaced 110 outlet in galley with new GFI outlet

Removed old microwave and installed new

Removed old steering quadrant

Cut out rudder bearing

Installed new SS rudder bearing on custom bearing plate

Installed new rudder stuffing box

Install new Edson radial-drive and steering cables

Re-welded throttle and shifter lever cams

Installed new Morse cables for throttle and shift

Built new rudder stops

Built new battery box

Stripped and re-glassed cabin top teak pads

Installed new teak panels on cabin top (7)

Re-caulked cockpit teak

Removed delaminated glass on side decks

Re-glassed side decks with 1508 biaxial cloth in West Systems epoxy

Fabricated risers for deck fills (6)

Faired side decks and bulwarks

Primed and applied Awlgrip to side decks and bulwarks

Marked out and applied kiwi-grip non-skid

Re-bedded all stanchions

Re-welded 2 stanchions

Welded new stanchion braces for bimmini

Fabricated stainless steel mounting bracket for windless

Built new bowsprit using mahogany and treated all holes with wood preservative

Removed wind vane self steering gear, serviced, and reinstalled with new bronze bolts

Re-glassed self steering vane paddle

Made new mounting block for wind vane rudder

Installed new wind vane rudder with custom zinc

Installed new binnacle compass

Fabricated instrument pod for chart plotter

Made and installed cup holder

Made new cockpit table

Rebuilt cockpit winches

Fabricate new cockpit drains

Ran new wiring for running lights

Installed new port and starboard running lights

Replaced bow roller pin

Replaced Sampson post/bowsprit bolt

Marked and installed new spade anchor and 300 ft 3/8 chain

Replaced all bolts on bow pulpit

Repaired eye on bow pulpit for life line

Repainted anchor locker

Remove and reinstall windless foot controls

Re-bedded all port lights

Replaced port light seals

Removed butterfly hatch main beam and re-bedded

Fabricated new screens for hatches (5)

Removed all chain plates including whisker plates and cutwater and replaced with custom plates and custom bolts (12 plates) (42 bolts) re-bedded all

Cut open mast step and replaced coring with GRP plates (re-glassed over, faired, and painted with Awlgrip

Stripped and refinished external teak with Cetol + maintenance coats every 6 months

Removed and re-bedded granny bars

Repaired lazaret hatch faired and painted with Awlgrip

Installed SSB back stay antenna

Installed Furuno wind and depth displays

Replaced mast step bolts with new custom bolts

Re-welded and repaired mast step plate

Stripped all hardware from mast, boom, and spreaders

Sanded all failing paint, alumaprepped, zinc chromate, primed and painted with Awlgrip top coat

Replaced vhf antenna with new

Replaced wind instruments with new

Replaces Windex with new

Replaced tricolor with new aqua signal led

Replaced spreader lights with new Dr LED

Installed new steaming light

Replaced radar reflector with new

Ran all new wire through mast as well as vhf coax

Reinstalled radar

Reinstalled all mast and boom headwear

Rebuilt winches on mast and boom (5)

Added bus bars at base of compression post for mast wiring

Installed new boom bails’s and backing plates

Installed new Profurl on forestay

Repaired and reinstalled Profurl on staysail stay

Replaced all mast tangs with new including bolts

Replaced all standing rigging with new

Repaired outhaul

Replaced all shieve pins on mast and boom

Installed new custom bobstay

Uninstalled old depth and wind instruments

Repaired drip-less shaft seal and added new spare seals on shaft

Removed prop shaft and had straightened

Glass over old speed log through hull

Replaced through hulls (11)

Replaced cutlass bearings (2)

Removed old strut to have new one cast

Re-bedded new strut

Lapped and installed new Campbell Sailor prop

Sandblast prop, shaft, and strut

Applied 2 coats of Interlux 2000 to prop, shaft, and strut

Applied 3 coats Trinidad hard antifouling to prop, shaft, and strut

Installed new zincs on rudder skeg and prop shaft

Stripped bottom to bare fiberglass

Applied 4 coats of Interlux 2000 to bottom

Applied 3 coats international Interspeed 640 antifouling to bottom

Bonded all under water metals (sea cocks, sea strainers, strut)

Repainted boot-stripe black

Had hull compound polished and waxed

Fabricated engine access hatch in settee seat back

Adjusted valves on Nanni

Pressure tested Nanni

Removed old Nanni engine

Reorganized wiring in engine compartment

Degreased and painted bilge area under engine

Installed new custom water lift muffler

Installed new larger sea strainer

Replaced all fuel hose and fuel hose fittings on tanks

Installed new fuel selector manifold

Installed new Racore fuel filter with vacuum gauge

Installed speed seal for engine impeller

Installed sound proofing insulation in engine compartment

Installed coolant reservoir

Filled engine with oil, trains oil, and coolant

Bled all fuel lines as well as engine

Installed switch for Balmar external regulator

Installed engine instrument panel and wiring harness

Installed new exhaust hose

Installed new exhaust outlet

Wired engine

Had fuel tanks cleaned

Removed generator and sold

Clean up generator area and install new floor

Removed all cold freshwater plumbing and installed new PEX tubing

Added water selector manifold

Installed 2 manual foot pumps for fresh and salt water

Installed new water filter

Replaced fresh water pump

Installed new hot water heater hose from engine

Installed water monitor with remote display

Repaired water tank inspection port

Installed new automatic bilge pump with new hose and vented loop

Replaced hose on manual bilge pump and back up auto bilge pump

Removed repaired and reinstalled water tank under engine

Installed keel cooler for new refrigerator

Fabricated new sink drain

Sealed around both sinks with 5200

Installed new macerator pump and hose

Installed new shower sump pump, hose, vented loop, and custom teak cover for vented loop

Fabricated holding tank discharge elbow

Installed new shower faucet

Replaced valves on head faucet

Removed old head and head hoses

Installed Lavac head and all new head hoses, y valve, and vented loops

Replaced drain hose for head sink

Replaced freshwater fill hose

Replaced air conditioner water pump and sea-strainer

Cleaned water tanks

Cetoled shower seat

Repainted trim in galley and above chart table

Rebuilt instrument turtle above hatch

Installed socket holders in work room

Removed old engine instrument panel and built shelf in its place

Removed old diesel heater and fabricated new shelf and installed tell-tale compass

Installed new light above work table

Built new chart table seat and reinforced seat arm base

Installed new barometer

Installed new locking handles on floorboards (6)

Installed custom cut glass mirror in head

Installed curtains for Pullman birth

Installed lee-cloth on Pullman

Installed CO2 alarm

Installed various coat hangers, hooks, and shelf’s

Polished bronze and applied protective coating on all

Installed new air-conditioned control panel

Installed WIFI booster antenna with wireless bridge

Installed new stereo and 2 speakers

Installed new breaker panel

Installed new Vesper marine AIS

Installed backup Garmin chart plotter at Nav table with separate antenna 

Removed and re-organized wires throughout boat
And Bob's your uncle….(in Frank's case, that really is the name of his uncle and grandfather!)

Here are some random before and afters we have laying around.  Forgive me if some of these are repeats from past posts:

We lived like this for months

We found this in our old exhaust.  It was used to
make up the difference between 2 different sized
exhaust hoses.

This came off our old stove while I was cooking

Clustf*$k!  We couldn't figure out where half this
stuff went to, so Frank just redid it. 

Heap of crap in bilges before it was redone and organized

Fitting for one of the old fuel lines.  Almost
completely clogged :(

After!

New plumbing

None of these wires went to anything!